Spaghetti Puttanesca con Brussels

Something halfway between pesto and puttanesca

What do you do with a ton of brussell sprouts?

I get my veggies from time to time from an organic farm but I have to pay a flat fee delivery charge so it behooves me to order a lot. This time I got a hefty bag of brussel sprouts and I didn’t want it losing its nutritional value sitting in the fridge for days. But how do you feed three people a ton of Brussels when they don’t love them as much as I do? Shred them!

I threw them into my Cuisinart with the shredding blade in place. Then I tossed some olive oil — quite a lot– into a pan and when it was hot tossed the whole lot of the shredded brussels in it and tossed until it had clearly cooked through.

Then I started on the puttanesca sauce. I used a dab of some red pesto sauce I had left in the fridge — there was really only a tablespoon or so left in the jar. You could replicate that with a dab of tomato paste and some basil. Then I chopped up olives, capers, garlic and anchovy. Mixed it all up in a bowl with a lot of olive oil. Cooked the spaghetti. Then threw the pasta and sauce into the pan with the Brussels sprouts, tossed it all together and started grating parmesan into it. I used a pesto parmesan but you could just use parmesan and add basil. Or do without the basil. Lots of salt and pepper and a sprinkling of red pepper. It was delicious.

Ingredients:

  • Spaghetti
  • Brussel sprouts shredded and sautéed in olive oil
  • Garlic
  • Capers
  • Olives
  • One or two anchovies
  • Parmesan
  • Salt and pepper
  • Oregano
  • More olive oil

Irish Stew

A meat-less take on a classic for St. Paddy’s Day

I was in Ireland for St. Patrick’s Day and after a small parade in the small village of Kilcar in County Donegal, I wanted to make something traditional for the holiday so I tried my hand at Irish stew sans the lamb or beef it traditionally requires. It came out great. Here were my ingredients:

  • Potatoes. I steamed these prior to tossing in the stew.
  • Carrots (I roasted these in the oven)
  • Onions (I cut up into big chunks and roasted with the carrots)
  • Parsnips (I had these frozen from making broth)
  • Aquifaba (This is the broth that comes from boiling chick peas –I had in the freezer from having made hummus but you could use vegetable broth.)
  • Barley
  • Mushrooms (I used a mixture of shitake, oyster and king trumpet, but any will do)
  • A cup of cream of mushroom soup (I used a local brand –not Campbells! –but you could just use more mushrooms, broth and onions)
  • Vegetarian sausage cut up in chunks and broiled.
  • Sage
  • Thyme
  • Salt and pepper
  • A dab of marmite (my secret ingredient)
  • Some soy sauce
  • Worcestershire sauce
  • Some miso

I actually had some leftover mushroom barley soup so I tossed that in — that accounted for the barley, but I added more mushrooms. I think the roasting the carrots and onions added a flavor punch. I used a lot of pepper. The broiling the sausage gave it a bit of heft so that they didn’t melt away in the stew as some veggie sausage tends to do. The barley and potatoes made it nice and thick.

Seriously it came out so good you wouldn’t know it had no meat in it.

I successfully made a koubideh with Beyond Burger crumbles so I thought I would use the same recipe for meatballs. But I can’t ever make the same thing twice. So I started with my koobideh recipe — Beyond meat mixed with a pulverized yellow onion, plenty of salt and pepper, red miso paste and my two Persian spice mixes I have from Villa Jerada. But then I started adding some Moroccan spices — cumin, cardamon, allspice and some ground ancho pepper. Some olive oil. And a ground up anchovy. I put that in the refrigerator for a while.

Couscous with egg, fennel, mint and tomatoes.

Then I made the side dishes. I stared with three quarters of a cup of couscous, which was all I had left. I added some tomato soup broth and water (for couscous use twice as much liquid as the grain.) I chopped up some fennel greens, not the bulb, added an egg to the not yet boiled water and then through in a tiny bit of bay leaf and some dried mint. Also salt and pepper and a tablespoon of ghee. When the liquid started boiling, I stirred in the couscous, covered it, turned off the flame and let it sit for 7 minutes. When it was done, I sliced up some cherry tomatoes and tossed them in.

For a second side, I diced up a sweet potato and sliced up the bulb of the fennel and put it on a roasting pan, sprinkled some cumin on it, drizzled some olive oil on it and tossed it and then stuck it in a preheated 400 degree oven for half an hour.

Sweet potato with fennel bulb salt and cumin.

I took the meatless mixture out of the refrigerator, rolled them into meatballs put it on a cast iron pan and stuck that under the broiler when the potato fennel mixture was done.

After a few minutes I rotated the pan and after a little more cooking, I flipped the meatballs. When they were done, I took them out of the cast iron pan, and tossed into it the couscous and the sweet potato fennel. Then I put the meatballs back in.

Here are the ingredients for the meatless balls:

  • One package of Beyond Burger meat
  • 1 yellow onion pulverized in the cuisinart.
  • 1 clove of crushed garlic
  • Spices. I used Villa Jerada Kefta rub and Urfa Biber
  • Cumin
  • Cardamon
  • Lots of salt and pepper
  • Red pepper
  • Garlic and onion poweder
  • Two tablespoons of red miso.
  • Olive oil

Here are the ingredients for the couscous

  • 1 cup of couscous
  • 2 cups of water or mixture of water and vegetable broth
  • 1 egg
  • Fennel greens chopped
  • 1 tablespoon of butter or ghee or olive oil
  • Some dried mint
  • A tiny amount of bay leaf (I use California bay which grows outside my front door but it is powerful!)
  • Salt

Here are the ingredients for the potato/fennel

  • 1 sweet potato diced
  • 1 fennel bulb sliced thin
  • Cumin
  • Salt
  • Pepper
  • Olive oil

It is now a full week since I last went to the food market. I’m taking this sheltering in place seriously. By now my dried garbanzos are used up so no more hummus for a while. But I still have a lot of staples and one thing I have is a big jar of wheat berries. That’s a grain a discovered a while back that when cooked up comes off like firm Israeli couscous.

I cooked up a batch of it. Then I cooked up a cup of basmati rice and tossed them together. I opened up a can of Westbrae Natural organic salad beans (a mixture of kidney, pinto and garbanzo beans). I added a big handful of frozen peas. I cut up some sun-dried tomatoes and a mixture of chopped, sautéed onions and garlic I had left over from breakfast. I chopped up and cooked in the microwave three large collard greens leaves, and threw it in. I added a chopped anchovy, some chopped green olives and some onion and garlic powder and salt. I diced and cooked a carrot and added that too. I sprinkled my trusty Ted & Barney’s salt and pepper mixture. I sprinkled some oregano, because why not? It would have been really great to add some chopped dates, but I didn’t have any.

Still, it is pretty darn tasty. The wheat berries add a satisfying chew. My daughter will complain that I am serving her horse food, but then I’m pretty sure she will eat it. Because it is good. Voila!

Ingredients

  • 1 cup of cooked wheat berries
  • 1 cup of white rice (I used basmati, but any white rice will work. Brown will do.)
  • Frozen peas
  • Diced and cooked carrots
  • Some collard greens (any green will do. Mustard greens would be brilliantW)
  • Sun-dried tomatoes
  • Olives
  • 1 anchovy chopped
  • Chopped and sautéed onions and garlic
  • Your choice of spices.
The finished Breakfast Hors D'Oeuvres

It is Day Whenever of the Great Coronavirus Shut-In and I continue to look for creative ways to serve up food to my spouse and teenage daughter (the latter is a waste of effort but I am a Sisphean by nature.) Four days ago I ventured to a local bakery masked and armed with hand sanitizer to buy a birthday cake for my daughter. When I got back into the car I decided I would forget the list I brought for the grocery story and try to go as long as we could without more groceries. I figured I could wait till at least our milk ran out, but we had enough for at least a week. And we have staples galore. One thing I had in my fridge from an early stocking up was a package of pre-made Lavash, which I could use to serve up wraps or pizzas on the fly. On the back were various suggestions including herbed crackers. That got me thinking: Hors D’oeuvres. Or as we use to say it back home Horse Devours.

What else could I scrounge in the kitchen? The avocados were finally ripe. I had eggs and olives. There you go. I cut up the lavash and baked it according to directions for five minutes. I sliced up an avocado, spread it on the baked crackers. I quickly fried up an egg and sliced that up and portioned it onto each cracker. Then I sliced up some green olives, topped the crackers with them and for color gave each cracker a little slice of a black olive. Voila!

A plate of the finished Breakfast Hors D'Oeuvres

You could, of course, use ready made crackers if you have them on hand. I didn’t. Cracker boxes don’t last long in my house. You could also top your crackers with anything you find in your fridge. But if you want them to be Breakfast Horse Devours, it needs egg.

I had leftovers after we wolfed down the meatless tacos. And if you’ve been reading this blog, you will know that I HATE wasting food. I’d soaked and cooked up a batch of garbanzo beans for hummus and that container of lentils/quinoa/corn/tomatoes/olives/mushrooms looked kind mideastern. So I thought: Hummus Platter! I also had three Italian eggplants I’d been planning on using for eggplant parmesan. Instead, I preheated my oven to 350 degrees Fahrenheit, sliced the eggplants in half, brushed each top with olive olive, sprinkled course salt and popped them in the oven for 20 minutes for Baba Ganoush, which, by the way, is my favorite food name. It takes me back to the days when I was a poor grad student at Columbia. We survived on $150 falafels from a place called Amy’s on Broadway and 113th St. Anyhoo…

First I cooked ups two cups of Israeli couscous in olive oil and vegetable broth with chopped onions and garlic and salt.

For the hummus I roughly followed Tamimi and Ottolenghi’s recipe in their cookbook Jerusalem, which I love. It calls for a generous amount of Tahini and lemon juice and some ice water. I add cumin, which I learned from my friend Sandra, whose mother is Moroccan. Plus salt and garlic and quite a bit of olive oil. All gets pureed together with the garbanzo beans in the Cuisinart until it is smooth and the right consistency.

For the baba ganoush, I scooped out the eggplant, and pureed it with olive oil, garlic and salt. Pretty simple.

I took my taco mix, put it in a pan and added my Villa Jerada Urfa Biber and Kefta Rub spices. Those are the ones I used to make Koubideh.

Meditteranean spices

But you can’t have a hummus platter without pita so I turned to this recipe. They turned out more flat bread than pita, but they were delicious. I’ve made pita before in a really hot oven and they came out more pita. This recipe had me do it on the stove top on medium heat and that might have made the difference. Or it could be that I didn’t have the patience this time to role them out flat enough. No matter. Be warned though. Making flat bread/pita is super easy, but very time consuming. You have to make the initial dough, let it rise for two hours. Then you need to divide the dough into eight balls and let them sit half an hour. Then when it is time to cook them, you have to flatten/roll out each ball and heat them for about three minute each side. So you are talking six minutes a pita or 48 minutes for the batch. But they are worth it.

Finally, I had a cauliflower that needed to be eaten so I drizzled olive oil and salt onto the cauliflower heads and popped them into my oven. It all came out just like I remembered from a favorite Turkish cafe we used to go to when I did a sabbatical in Barcelona a while back.

This is how it started. I was rifling through my freezer and came across a container of cooked quinoa I forgot I had in there. Quinoa is a hard sell on my daughter and spouse but I hate wasting food. Then I saw a recipe on line that combined quinoa, corn, tomatoes and black beans into a Mexican casserole. I pulled out of the cupboard some red rice I thought would go nicely with the quinoa and saw a jar of lentils, which called out to me. So I started by cooking the red rice and when that was halfway done, I threw in a cup of lentils. Then I I chopped up an onion and sautéed it in olive oil. I added my thawed quinoa and a clove of chopped garlic. I added the red rice and lentils to the mix, tossed in a can of corn and half a can each of black beans and diced tomatoes. I gave it a big dose of cumin (don’t skimp on the cumin) and my trusty Ted & Barney’s salt and pepper mix. More pepper, more salt. I chopped up a dried ancho chili in my coffee/spice grinder and added that. I chopped up an anchovy for some umami and some black olives, because why not?

At that point my spouse walked in and asked if I was making tacos. I looked at him, looked at the pot and said of course! My daughter had asked for tacos a few days prior, but we hadn’t made them and I had the box of shells sitting on my counter. I was going to add some Beyond Sausage, but decided the mixture didn’t need it. It tasted as if it already had meat in it.

I then tossed the shells in the preheated oven for five minutes and in the meantime chopped up some lettuce and grated a block of cheddar cheese.

Seriously these tacos were so good, you would never know there wasn’t beef in it. The spouse said they tasted like Taco Bell.

Ingredients

  • 1/2 cup of cooked quinoa
  • 1/2 cup of cooked lentils
  • 1/2 cup of cooked red rice
  • 1/2 can of black beans
  • 1 can of corn
  • 1 small onion
  • half 8 ounce can (okay four ounces) of diced tomatoes
  • A few black olives diced
  • 1 clove of garlic chopped
  • Red pepper flakes
  • Salt and pepper
  • Cumin
  • Box of taco shells
  • Lettuce
  • Cheddar cheese

Fusilli with smoked salmon and asparagus

A plate of fusilli with smoked salmon, basil, capers and lemon.

I picked up a package of locally-smoked salmon. But we didn’t have bagels and I didn’t feel like eggs and salmon. How about noodles? In my pantry I had fusilli noodles — those are the corkscrew shaped ones. I had asparagus and basil. So that’s what I used.

The fusilli boiling.

First I boiled the entire package of fusilli.

Meanwhile, I chopped up a big clove of garlic. I chop that first, because the book Eating on the Wild Side said you can double the nutritional value of garlic if you let it sit for 10 minutes after chopping it, before you cook it. Then I chopped up the basil, a slice of anchovy and some capers.

Capers, anchovy, basil and garlic.

I preheated my oven to 350, laid out the asparagus on a sheet of parchment paper, sprinkled some course salt on it and drizzled it with olive oil and threw it in the oven for 15 minutes.

I wizzed a dried ancho pepper in my coffee grinder turned spice grinder.

When the noodles were done, I cut the salmon into big chunks and tossed it in. I poured some milk over it. I added the garlic/basil/anchovy/capers. Tossed in the red paper flakes from the grinder. Added some onion powder and my trusty Ted and Barney’s salt and pepper mix. Added some oregano and quite a lot of lemon juice. Finally I took the asparagus out of the oven, sliced it up and added it to the noodles as well. Finally, I tossed in a little white wine I found in the refrigerator.

So what’s in the dish?

  • Noodles (I used fusilli, but any noodle will do)
  • Smoked salmon. Fresh salmon would be awesome in this.
  • Fresh basil, chopped
  • A big clove of garlic or two small cloves, chopped.
  • 1 slice of anchovy (optional, but it boosts the flavor)
  • A small handful of capers, chopped.
  • Half a cup of milk
  • Lemon juice
  • Asparagus
  • A dash of white wine if you have it on hand.
  • Red pepper flakes
  • Oregano
  • Salt and pepper to taste
  • Onion powder if you have it.

I grew up on Chinese food. My family is Jewish and we were pretty conservative Jewish. My mother kept a kosher house. We didn’t eat meat and dairy together. We had separate plates, cutlery and cookware for meat and dairy. But we were Jewish. And that meant we LOVED Chinese food. We ate at the one restaurant in our area, Tung Sing, once a week. Or we’d take out from Tung Sing. We’d order barbecued spare ribs — pretending it wasn’t pork and crispy deep fried egg rolls.

This is how kosher we were. When we took out from Tung Sing, we’d eat on paper plates so the non-kosher food wouldn’t touch our kosher plates.

I started making my own lo mein shortly after I graduated college. I was living in Washington, D.C. then, in a big six-bedroom ramshackle town house in Mt. Pleasant that I shared with five other people. The unwritten rule was that if you were cooking, make enough for a lot of people. If it turned out the housemates were out, I’d call up a bunch of friends to see if anyone was hungry and within an hour I had an impromptu dinner party. We were all poor and my friends were always hungry.

I’ve tinkered with my recipe, taking some great advice from a number of online sites and stealing ideas from various Chinese restaurants I frequent. From a local place in Arcata, I discovered Szechuan pepper, which has a great unique taste, that’s like nothing else I’ve had. I learned to add Mirin, which is a Chinese cooking wine, or sake if I don’t have Kirin on hand. Sometimes I throw in ginger and Miso for umami. I buy noodles from a Japanese store in the next town over.

Red Boat fish sauce

For vegetables, I slice up tofu, mushrooms and greens — this time I had collards on hand, but I’ve used kale or mustard greens. I threw in water chestnuts and bamboo shoots and a couple of eggs scrambled. I sauté each of the ingredients separately in my wok in hot toasted sesame oil with chopped garlic and onions. I do that while the water for the noodles is boiling. Chinese noodles don’t take long to cook. I empty the wok out, add some more toasted sesame oil then toss in the noodles. I pour some fish sauce over it. These days I am using Red Boat. And of course I pour in soy sauce, or tamari, if I have it. That’s it. I’d add carrots, but I didn’t have any. I might also add peas or snow peas. It is fun dish to cook and everybody loves it.

Couscous has got to be the easiest thing in the world to make. It is the ultimate disaster food. All you have to do is boil some water and when it is boiled add half the amount of couscous to the amount of water, turn off the flame and let sit for 5-7 minutes. Seriously that’s it. I also add a little salt and oil or butter. But if you don’t have either, water and couscous will do it. Really satisfying.

Then you can start adding stuff to it if you want, as its cooking. One of my breakfast staples for my daughter, ever since she was little, has been couscous and egg. I make the couscous as above with a little butter, and when the water is halfway boiled I break in an egg. When the water is boiled and the egg has started to harden I swirl in the couscous. Satisfying, tasty and she gets her morning protein. Sometimes I sprinkle in my trusty Ted & Barneys salt and pepper mix and some nutritional yeast.

But this morning, Coronavirus Saturday, she is still sleeping and won’t likely wake up till afternoon. I’m thinking about what to make for myself and my spousal unit. I’m getting kind of tired of omelets and scrambles and my mind started thinking about the couscous. I couldn’t possibly give Jeff the plain old couscous and eggs. He’d think that boring. Couscous doesn’t excite him the way it excites me. So I mentally went through our cupboard and fridge. We had collards that need to be used up. And we have smoked salmon. How about couscous, egg, collards and smoked salmon? Why not?

So first I set two cups of water to boil in a small pan. You can do it in a pot, but couscous fluffs better when spread out. I added olive oil and some salt to the water. While that boiled I took out three eggs, and chopped up two leaves of collards. When the water was halfway boiled I broke in the three eggs. Just as the water boiled I tossed in the collard greens, swirled it all around, and then added some smoked salmon, about a third of a 4-ounce package. I added a little more water to make up for all the things I added. Put on the lid and set the timer for 7 minutes.

Once it was ready, I scooped it out onto two plates, added some halved cherry tomatoes and a few slices of mango to pretty up the plate. Voila!